Monday, September 26, 2011

Rishikesh

Touts claiming Rishikesh as the "Yoga Capitol of the World" drew me out of the confinement of Navdanya to complete a journey on my own this weekend. I had many firsts including cramming my body into an overly packed Indian bus. Here are a few other things I saw:
  • approximately 5,439 cows;
  • a yoga class involving jumping jacks;
  • the holy Ganges River (also the 5th highest polluted river in the world);
  • Ganga Aarti evening prayer service ceremony;
  • ashram where the Beatles wrote most of the White Album;
  • a monkey trying to steal a baby;
  • mala prayer necklaces;
  • pizza!;
  • ice cream!;
  • treehouse restaurant;
  • popcorn
  • cow dung on my foot (not my shoe - my foot);
  • dal fry;
  • garlic naan;
  • tulsi tea;
  • henna painting;
  • temples;
  • Tibetan wall hangings
  • high drawbridges three people wide, but involving motorbikes, monkeys, and cows trying to cross, as well;
  • and... a delicious mango lassi!




















Make-Your-Own Organic Pesticides

I am very impressed not only by the diversity of plants on the Navdanya farm, but the variety of organic pesticides and fertilizers used on the farm, as well. There are seven types of compost used at Navdanya. This includes vermicomposting (with worms and cow dung), a layer cake compost (a large and shallow hole in the earth filled with straw, green plant material, then a mixture of cow dung and urine, then covered with the earth and left to sit), and of course the leftover food compost, which seems to mostly be eaten by the dogs. There is also a barrel on the edge of one of the fields which contains cow dung, cow urine, sugar cane sludge (gur), and chickpea flour (besan) that is composted and then pumped into the irrigation channels of the farm. I have yet to discover what the other three types of compost could possibly be.
The cows checking in on how their waste is doing in the vermicomposting center.  
A mixture of cow dung and urine applied to the compost layer cake.

The blue barrel compost.

We also recently had a study abroad group from New York visit and I sat in on one of their lectures regarding the making of organic pesticides at Navdanya. Since the videos I took will not load with this in-and-out Internet connection, I will do my best to explain what I learned. The pesticide we helped to make included leaves from the camphor tree, neem leaves, and a third plant that starts with a D. I thought they said daikon, but pointed to a large tree so I will have to look into the name of that plant. Shavings from a bar of natural soap called biotech were also added. These ingredients were all placed into a bucket of cow urine and mixed for application. One liter of this mixture is enough for one acre of pest protection. I was told this pesticide protects against all pests. Marigolds planted on the edge of the fields are also an effective method for deterring pests here.

The leaves used in organic pesticide making are crushed in a mortar pestle type device and then added to the cow urine.

Applying the pesticide to the rice.



Saturday, September 17, 2011

Communication through Observation

It has been a rice-filled week and gaining a perspective on the Navdanya farming process has yet to come to fruition. Regardless of the painstakingly obvious language barrier, I have been able to participate in work on the farm on a daily basis. One of my fellow interns jokingly made up a statistic on the spot that 93% of communication is non-verbal, yet this week has proven to me that this actually might have some truth. With a few nods and points, myself, along with a few other interns have successfully aided in the cleaning of rice for an entire week. My initial questions upon arrival such as: How was this planted? When will this be harvested? How do these varieties differ? have been replaced by the many hours it has taken me just to learn and ask: Ap kya nam hai? Ap kya tikh hai? Yah kya saf hai? (What is your name? Are you ok/how are you? Is this clean?).

Although cleaning rice is just as tedious as any other farmwork, it is not quite as enjoyable because I am not able to participate in the conversations. The workers are definitely friendly and help at my meager attempts to speak Hindi, however once something funny happens, or the conversation graduates from What is your name? Where are you from?, I get lost. However, I do get to participate in the chai breaks, so for now that and observation are enough for me. The work involves picking up handfuls of rice at a time to sort out all the rice that has not fallen out of its husk and any rocks that remain in the pile. From what I have observed the rice, once removed from the stalk (cheval) is put onto some sort of conveyor belt machine (the only machine I have seen on the whole farm) that then shakes the rice so much that the husk falls off. It does not get every piece of rice, though and this is why we have to sort out what the machine missed. This rice is sold to markets in Delhi, Bombay, and Dehradun, and the cleaner it is, the more money Navdanya will reap from its sale.

However, I am not hopeless. My confidence level in only a week has nearly doubled and my knowledge of the farm will continue to grow along with my Hindi vocabulary, which I have been practicing daily. Navdanya's participation within the local community is also not fully apparent to me. From what I understand, many of the farmers we have been cleaning rice with travel in an hour or so everyday to work on the farm and do not have a farm of their own at home. However, Navdanya does work with local farms in the area to distribute varieties of seeds and farming practices in order to maintain indigenous knowledge and culture. I am very interested in how many of these tedious crops are grown without using machinery and hope to explore this on the other farms, as well.

Beautiful baby calf - the only cow I am not afraid of here.
                                      
Millet and corn laying out to dry.

cow dung and urine being mixed by hand for the compost layer cake (layers of dry material, green material, cow dung/urine mixture, then covered in earth for 40 days)

cleaning rice!
 
all the men rushed from cleaning rice to the rice machine once they realized it was broken


rice to be cleaned

Monday, September 12, 2011

Farm Tour!

Finally, time to post some pictures of this place I am already growing to love. There will be many more to come as I get to know the place better and as my patience grows to deal with the slow Internet connection.


Home sweet home for the next four months. I share a room with three other girls, one from the UK the two other from the US. Note the mosquito net which is not so much for mosquito protection, but instead for jumping lizard and mouse protection.


 
Lucy, one of the four farm dogs who will help me from becoming too homesick.

Guava tree!

 
When rice is still in the field it is called paddy.

Foothills of the Himalayas through some grain.

Turmeric will not be harvested until the winter months, it takes about 6 months to grow.



Peanut and sesame seed plants
Five hundred and fifty varieties of rice are grown here! 
Marigolds are planted on the edge to keep away pests.
We will be harvesting these in a few weeks or so.

The soapnut-tree's seeds lather when added to water. We use the soap to wash our dishes here on the farm and it can also be used as a shampoo!
 The farm has about 4 or 5 cows their manure and urine are very important
  to the fertilization of the crops here.


Sunday, September 11, 2011

Dr Promode Kant

One more post about the train ride before I give a farm tour. It is time for an academic reflection, or at least an attempt at one through my stagnant jet lag. My train ride from Delhi to Dehradun provided an excellent introduction and starting point to my thoughts here at Navdanya. I was seated next to Dr. Promode Kant, who really opened up once found out I was heading to Dr. Vandana Shiva's farm to work on biodiversity. He, in fact is right now working on a paper discussing the effect climate change has on the survival of rice varieties. He even emailed me a copy of the paper, which I will get to eventually.

He was, overall, very excited about me heading to the farm, but did have some ideas to share with me about Dr. Vandana Shiva's work. Dr. Kant is the Director of the Institute of the Green Economy here in India and has also been a visiting professor all over Europe discussing the biodiversity of planting rice in Agroforestry. His one concern was the lack of technology in Vandana Shiva's work. While many biotech companies are overusing technology in the form of abusing the environment and landscape, Dr. Kant believes some forms of technology are still needed in order to feed the increasingly dense population of India. He also pointed out that the low cost of technology such as cell phones and computers, has given some equal opportunities to lower income Indians. And while there is much more to say about that, the opportunity to be more connected with the world has it's privileges, as well.

In my couple of days here I have been thinking about the lack of technology on this farm, as well. Granted, this is a seed farm, so the majority of food grown here is saved for seed. We eat some of the food grown, but would the farm be able to sustain itself if it were growing food? Are any of the local farmers using machinery and technology to produce food for their local villages? How many people are they feeding with their practices? And is it an efficient use of the land space that is shrinking so fast here in India?

Within the stack of newspapers we both received on the train, Dr. Kant also pointed out a very interesting article for me to read. I found the same article on-line in the Indian Express, I definitely recommend reading it: http://www.indianexpress.com/news/how-many-gene-traits-can-a-seed-have/843826/
I was very interested in the end of the article which discusses the allowance of Genetically Modified (GM) crops in India. Currently in India, Biotech companies (Monsanto, Biocon) have to get approval from Agriculture, Environment, and Science and Technology Ministries in order to use GM crops in Indian cities. So far, only 3 out of 29 states in India allow the use of GM seeds, and only Bt cotton has been approved in India so far. However, India also ranks among the top five countries in terms of GM acreage and there are currently field trials for GM corn. Biotech companies are now working to form a Biotech Regulatory Authority of India, which would be a five-member body that does not require state approval to use GM seeds. The article states that this is likely to be tabled in the next Parliament session, but it will be an interesting bill to follow. This is just the beginning of a whole list of issues I would like to follow while I am here.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Yatra

Namaste! I have reached my destination Bija Vidyapeeth (seed college). It is hard to believe that I touched down in Delhi less than 48 hours ago and I already have blisters (challas) on my thumbs from removing corn kernels! I had anticipated something to go wrong in between the lack of sleep, death-defying taxi ride through Delhi, walk to the train station, actually finding my train and seat, and eventually finding a cab to the farm, but it all went pretty smoothly. The journey (yatra) was actually quite fun! Upon arrival at Indira Gandhi Airport my nerves were overtaken by a sense to appear confident and to hold onto my luggage with a vice grip. However, I had no troubles at all. Although I had no idea where I was going, I kept on walking as if I did, until I found an information desk. They pointed me in the direction of the prepaid taxis. I paid 300 rupees (just over $6) for about a half-hour ride to Hotel Raj in Paharganj (a neighborhood in Delhi near train station). It amazed me we did not hit a bicyclist or side-swipe a bus along the way.

The Hotel Raj was exactly what I needed. Although it lacked a hot shower (not something I especially needed in the heat) it felt good to stretch out my legs in the big, clean bed; brush my teeth; and hop on the Internet upon my arrival. The front desk was extremely helpful and accommodating, as well. I would definitely recommend a stay there if ever in Delhi. Since I arrived there at dark and left the next morning at dark, I can't say much about the surrounding neighborhood. However, it was pretty loud and I wouldn't say I would have felt extremely safe walking around at night. 

My train to Dehradun left at 6:50 the next morning, but it was pouring so the hotel called me a rickshaw. Again, that was quite the experience. I am glad I did not walk the mile to get there because the streets were absolutely flooded with rainwater containing who knows what. There were many rickshaws lined up at the train station with men sleeping inside before they started their long day. Once at the train station I had no idea what I was doing, but again, walked like I did, and ended up following a family into the station. We pushed our way through the "security gate" (like you'd see at an airport, where you put your bag through a scanner and walk through the metal detector, but there was no order at all, you just pushed your way through and back to the belt again to grab your bag on the other side). 

Once inside the station I continued walking like I knew what I was doing, but had lost the family in the security hubbub. I realized I was definitely in the wrong place once I saw no more families and just saw people sleeping on the ground, so I casually turned back around and found a mass of people walking up some stairs. All I knew was I was going to Dehradun, and I had a ticket that said E2 56, and had no idea what that meant. As I was walking up the stairs I caught the tail end of an announcement, "Dehradun, platform 16" It was then I looked up an realized that there indeed were numbered platforms. I was on platform 1 and just had to keep walking through the mass of people to get to 16. Once I was on platform 16, I realized each train car was labeled with the G2, G1... E2, etc. which seemed to have no order to me. Once I found E2 I then saw I had seat 56 and it was all easy as pie! My request for a window seat must have been denied because I was sat in the aisle. Fortunately, a lady asked if I could switch seats so she could sit next to her family, which sent me up to seat 9 next to the window and to Dr. Promode Kant who is the Director for the Institute of Green Economy. I'll have to write a whole new blog post on him and my discussion with him in my next post. But I also still have to introduce the farm! So much to write about!

The train ride has been my favorite part of the journey so far. It took about 6 hours to get up to Dehradun and I had a wonderful introduction to India the entire time. We passed many slums nestled right up against the train tracks. Their backyards included everything from cows, to pigs, to goats, to chickens, to massive heaps of trash. I could have ridden the train all day. It was my first time in air-conditioning, which was very nice, and there was food and tea and a new newspaper in front of me the whole time.

Once in Dehradun I received the most attention from the rickshaw drivers. They came up to me right at the exit and tried to get me to come with them. I kept walking, again, like I knew where I was going and found myself a prepaid taxi stand again. I definitely stood out here, being the only white person. In Delhi there were a few other obvious foreigners, but I felt pretty special here. At the cab stand, they didn't speak English, so my poor pronunciation of Ramgarh (the village where Bija Vidyapeeth is near) didn't get me anywhere. I eventually just gave them my notebook that showed directions here and they figured it out. I hopped in another cab for 560 rupees and took another pretty scary ride. But they brought me directly to the farm. Once here I was fed a delicious and filling meal. More on the farm later!

Here are a few poor-quality pictures I took on the rainy train ride, but it is all I have taken so far:






Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Anxiosly Awaiting Take-off!!

I have mixed emotions as I patiently wait in the Denver airport. Plane for Newark leaves in one hour and I feel like I will finally be on my way once I start making my way east. I'm very excited for what is to come, but also have this unnerving feeling I am going to be very uncomfortable in a matter of hours. Unfamiliarity scares me, and the many suggestions for women to not travel alone in India are also making me quite nervous. However, I am about to embark on a life-changing journey, and I am trying my hardest to prepare for that. Is there even a way to prepare? I have been planning for this trip for months now and after the endless reading and trips to Target I know that I just have to be happy with the information and supplies I have and go for it.

I will be arriving at Navdanya, the farm I will be on for the majority of time I am in India, on Friday afternoon. This is the link to their website: http://www.navdanya.org/earth-university/volunteers.

I will continue to write more about my project as I am introduced to the work on the farm and learn more about the dynamics within the local community. I have had the opportunity to talk with many of my friends who have been to India and greatly appreciate all of their advice, but also look forward to my own adventure. Namaste!